Every time I stand at the stove stirring oatmeal, the aroma floats up, envelops me and triggers the memory of my grandmother. I remember I was about five years old and would stand next to Mita (my grandmother’s nickname for Juanita which everyone used to address her), as she stirred and stirred that heavenly porridge that had a savory, sweet, nutty aroma. When she finally served the smoking hot oatmeal, I had to wait a bit before getting that first creamy spoonful into my mouth. The aroma of Mita''s oatmeal is seared onto my childhood memory and no matter how hard I try to reproduce it, it is not the same.
I’m sure that you all have special moments engraved in your memories that include food and people you love and care about very much. I have no doubt about this when thinking about us Puerto Ricans, for sure the happiest gatherings always include scrumptious food, lots of conversation, laughter, family and friends.
My niece Ivelisse has shared with me more than once how she recalls when she was about eight years old and she stayed with Eddie and me for a few days during a summer vacation. One day we baked (of all things) oatmeal cookies from scratch. Together we measured, stirred and dropped spoonfuls of the mixture onto a cookie sheet and then waited for them to bake. The aroma filled the house and made us both hungry. It was fun to go through the process and then sit down to have freshly baked cookies with milk or, in my case, a steaming cup of café con leche. Ivelisse is today a young adult who still remembers that experience and has a special place in her heart for homemade oatmeal cookies and her aunt.
Food memories can also be a bit problematic. A good example of that is my dear husband Eddie and his memories of smell, taste and certain foods. The first time I made pernil (roast pork) I followed Carmen Aboy Valldejuli’s recipe from Cocina Criolla, a well known Puerto Rican cookbook. I thought I had done a great job, but when he tasted it, he said something that he has regretted the rest of his life.
“This does not taste like the roast pork my mother makes.”
I did not physically harm him, even though I did think about it. However, what I said to him at that time early in our marriage, I have not gone back on:
“Well, mijo, from now on you can go to your mother’s for pernil. I will never make it in my lifetime!”
I will say, though, that that particular situation ended well. During the last ten years or so Eddie ventured into the kitchen and has learned to make many of his favorite dishes which include....yes, you guessed it: pernil. I have to give him credit; he makes delicious roast pork.
Another delicacy that we have tried to make on various occasions is a fritter that is typical in the town where Eddie was born, Lares. The fritters are made with rice flour and other ingredients and they are called almojábanas. We have tried various recipes and have even tried the prepared flour mix from Lares, but the fritters never compare to the taste and consistency that Eddie has stored in his childhood memory.
It is interesting to note that researchers have found that we begin storing memories of scents even before birth through the amniotic fluid (Fields). This connection between amniotic fluid and smells was studied in the 1990’s by Fellow Julie Mennella at the Monell Chemical Sciences Center where ten pregnant women took either a garlic pill or a placebo 45 minutes before a routine amniocentesis. Most of the volunteers who were asked to smell the fluid samples were able to distinguish the ones that smelled of garlic. Another study was conducted in France with anise, a scent associated with licorice. A group of pregnant women were asked to eat more anise-flavored cookies than usual and the control group of pregnant women was those who did not eat anything with that particular flavor. After birth, the babies “were offered the smell of anise and another odor.... [and] they turned their head toward the odor they had in the womb” (Fields).
Dr. Maria Larsson, an associate professor of psychology at Stockholm University , has also studied the power of smell and she describes it as “an almost magical time machine” (Angier). In a study of groups of Swedes whose overall average age was 75, three different sets of memory cues were offered through words, pictures, and smells. The word and picture cues elicited memories of adolescence and young adulthood. On the other hand, the smell cues evoked memories of early childhood. The memories associated with scent were described in “exceptionally rich and emotional terms...They smelled cardamom, and there they were in the kitchen, flour dust flying as they helped Mama and Nana roll out the holiday buns” (Angier). Dr. Larsson attributes the smells of early childhood to the fact that olfaction is the first of our senses to mature and whatever it records remains with us always.
From reading and writing about this topic I have learned that our childhood memories of certain aromas, especially food, have no comparison to those we experience later in life. I know that I will not eat a bowl of oatmeal like the one Mita used to make and that Eddie will not have almojábanas like his mother used to make. Still, there are many scents that we enjoy and some of them will invariably reconnect us to our childhood. My niece summed it up well when she responded to my inquiry about her childhood experience with the oatmeal cookies: “It certainly was a very happy time where I felt very much loved.” Loving moments and scents are tightly woven together and firmly planted in our memories and when evoked, they provide us with a sense of warmth and comfort.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“Nothing is more memorable than a smell. One scent can be unexpected, momentary and fleeting...Smells detonate softly in our memory like poignant land mines hidden under the weedy mass of years. Hit a tripwire of smell and memories explode all at once. A complex vision leaps out of the undergrowth.” ~ From: A Natural History of the Senses by Diane Ackerman.
References
Angier, Natalie. “The Nose, an Emotional Time Machine.” The New York
Times. 5 Aug. 2008. Web. 25 May 2012.
Fields, Helen. “Fragrant Flashbacks: Smells Rouse Early Memories.”
Observer. 25:4 (Apr. 2012). Assoc. for Psychological Science. Web.
22 May 2012.
